The Fro Fro Blog

Wink (Austin)

My Dear Fro Fro Blog faithful - I've been neglecting you! You've been missing out on all my escapades unless you've followed me over on the Web's latest bright shiny object, Twitter -- http://twitter.com/laurafrofro. C'mon people: if my dad can do it, so can you. But since you did take the time to read this post, I'll reward you with a delicious meal. 

No cheeky sarcasm at Wink - just simple, flavorful and beautifully presented dishes. ;) an amuse of basil lime agua fresca to enjoy while perusing the menu 

;) rabbit ravioli with peas, carrots and shaved Italian summer truffle 

;) grilled antelope on celeriac purée with maitake mushrooms and baby leeks 

;) wink trio: sampling of lemon meringue pot (tart lemon curd inside a crisp meringue shell), crème brûlée, and el rey flourless chocolate cake.

The ravioli were surprisingly light. The antelope and celeriac exceeded my expectations for something unique; the savory, beautifully cooked, well-seasoned meat and the creamy celeriac complemented each other perfectly. As for the desserts -- they were the perfect threesome. Nudge nudge, wink Wink ;) 

Race Report: ING Miami Half Marathon

On January 25, I ran the ING Miami Half Marathon -- but since I've been quite busy and haven't written until now (as if you hadn't noticed), much of the experience is already a distant memory.  So this race report will be less like a half marathon and more like a sprint!

Arrived in Miami on Friday night and checked into the brand-spankin'-new Kimpton hotel in downtown Miami -- called Epic.  Choosing that moniker is always a risk, but this hotel lives up to it.  Beautifully designed and every detail attended to.  Great restaurant, too -- Area 31 -- where I spent most of my meals over the course of the weekend.  Its focus is on the sustainable ingredients of its namesake region, as designated by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization.  

On Saturday morning, I went there for whole wheat pancakes.  They were thin and tasty -- what you'd get if a thick pancake and a crepe had three little pancake babies.  Then went to the Expo on to pick up my bib, chip and other accoutrements, including a t-shirt emblazoned with my new motto: "Shut up and run."  Perfect -- since for me running is a solitary pursuit and a chance for me to be at one with my mind and body.  I don't need to hear you yapping about your friend's boyfriend's friend, or the addition you're putting on your house, or whatever else you hear people blab about as you're trying to enjoy a race.  The motto also has broader applications in life.  Don't whine, just get the job done!    

By the time I was finished at the Expo it was lunch time, so I made my way over to the South Beach outpost of LA's Table 8 for one of Govind Armstrong's famous Beef Short Rib Grilled Cheese sandwiches.  Yes, that's a side salad and not fries in the photo.  Hadn't earned that particular reward yet.

Although I'd wanted to get out and explore Miami more (read: shop), unfortunately I was hit with a pretty bad case of jet lag.  So most of Saturday was spent Epic-ally napping.   Big mistake, because I wasn't able to sleep that night before the race.  

When I awoke, I did a quick investigation of restaurants for pre-race pasta.  There was one called Fratelli Lyon that looked good, but I just couldn't bring myself to leave my hotel.  Another big mistake, as I've since learned Fratelli Lyon is not to be missed.  It's on my list for next time.  

Epic was conveniently located about five blocks from the American Airlines Arena race start and finish.  That was nice because the race started at 6am to beat the heat, so at 5:30 I didn't have to go far.  I think it was about 60 degrees, which for me was downright balmy, but most of the conversations I overheard involved how cold it was.  I ate my Peanut Butter Builders Bar, blissfully unaware that it would be one of my last for a while.  In response to the salmonella scare, CLIF has voluntarily recalled all of their Peanut Butter Builders.  None has tested positive, thank goodness, since I eat one every morning for breakfast.  Or I should say ATE, since I won't be again until they put new ones on the shelves in late April.   

I can hear you now...we thought this report was going to be a sprint!  Well, this race proved that even when you think you're going to go fast, sometimes it doesn't work out that way.  Despite the fact that the course was mostly flat except for a few bridge crossings, I clocked in at one of my slowest race paces in a while (2:28:48).  But I'm fine with that.  I enjoyed the beautiful scenery, including Miami Beach's Ocean Drive, and the pleasant weather.  I would do the race again in a heartbeat, and recommend it to anyone considering it for next year.

After the race, I showered, napped a bit more, then headed back upstairs to Area 31 once more.  It was time for my traditional post-race burger and, yes, reward fries.

P.S.  Later that week, while I was still in Florida on business, I continued the theme of eating only in numbered restaurants by having dinner at Prime 112.  Thanks for the tip, Miss Lauren!  Though the restaurant was noisy and scene-y, and the wait staff made us wait so long that even I couldn't stay awake for dessert, the food we did have was choice.  My app was a creamy tomato soup with a mini grilled cheese sandwich plunked in the middle.  My main was a beautifully prepared petit filet mignon, accompanied by a side of the most amazing vanilla-infused sweet potatoes.  Don't let the photo fool you -- the side order portion was large enough for two to enjoy at dinner, and each have a container to take home.  

 

How I Spent My Summer Vacation 2008

Happy summer, everyone!  I've missed you, darlings, but as you'll see from this post, I've been frolicking about, conjuring up content for you.   There's soooo much to tell, and so many photos.  So what I'll do is give you the brief overview and a few of the photos here -- then you can head over to Webshots and see the full album.  How's that?

Fourth of July Weekend
The official start of the season, and what a treat -- my cousin Dana came for a visit from Chicago for a friend's wedding.  We camped out at the Claremont, shopped in Berkeley and brunched at Bette's Oceanview Diner. (Read the full Bette's post here.)

While Dana went to the wedding, I dined on Tagliatelle with Rabbit Ragu Balsamico, Porchetta (basically pork and more pork) and not one but two desserts at Oliveto.  I've become something of an SF snob lately, so it was great to have such a delish meal over in the East Bay.  The hostess was on to me, though -- she said "I love your dress. You got that in the city, right?"  Right you are.

Martha's Vineyard
The Vineyard is one of my favorite places on Earth.  I had three goals for this trip and I'm pleased to report I achieved them all:
1) Spend quality family time with the 'rents, Uncle Robby, Helen, Ray and little John
2) Get a nice tan
3) Finally finish Calvin Trillin's The Tummy Trilogy    
The first two were easy.  The last one had been a challenge  -- I'd been reading that book for about five months or so, as you may have noticed in my Recent Reads column on this page.  Why?  Trillin chronicles his gastronomic adventures so vividly that I'd read three or four pages and have to put the book down because it made me too hungry.  I'm even seriously contemplating a trip to Kansas City just to sample some of Arthur Bryant's BBQ, especially the burned edges of the brisket.

We dined at Bleu in Mashpee Commons prior to catching the ferry at Woods Hole.  The Vineyard menu included Lobster Rolls at the Edgartown Yacht Club, Ice Cream at Mad Martha's, Murdick's Fudge (Uncle Robby's fave -- we taste-tested it ourselves in the car before anyone else could have at it), a lovely albeit long dinner at L'etoile, and a day that included both breakfast and lunch at Espresso Love.  There was also a delicious dinner at the Schapiros' place in Chilmark featuring super-fresh local fare.  Fish, salad, freshly-baked bread, and fruit pies for dessert. Then there were beautiful morning runs and tennis games to keep my caloric karma balanced.

New York, New York
Hot town, summer in the city.  Made my obligatory (yes, it's such a chore) trip to Nellie M. to make some choice additions to my wardrobe.  Did you know Citizens of Humanity makes petite-size jeans?  Oh, the humanity - no shortening!

Then Mom, Dad and LeBro James and I went to BLT Steak for my NY birthday celebration.  Best. Popovers. Ever.  We ordered so much food that they had to open the leaves of the square table to make it round so it could hold everything.  

The next day, there was a Cupcake Chowdown on the Upper West Side.  Read all about Magnolia vs. Crumbs here.

Birthday Weekend in Wine Country
In my younger years, I developed something of a reputation for throwing memorable birthday bashes.  Yes, why not celebrate me!  However, this year I decided to forgo the big production number in favor of a Napa Valley getaway.  I stayed for three days, and on Saturday Rebecca and Greg came up to spend time with the birthday girl.

The weekend included a breakfast at Bouchon Bakery, brunches at 25º Brix (the Yountville outpost of TWO's David Gingrass) and Redd, and dinners at Go Fish and Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen.

I stayed at Villagio Inn & Spa, which has undergone a multi-million dollar renovation. (Thanks to Vezeo for the tip!)  I had a 90-minute wrap and sports massage, and my hypothesis that it would be wonderful was proven correct.  The resort is right on the main drag of Washington Street in Yountville.  Walking-distance neighbors include a few Thomas Keller establishments (French Laundry, ad hoc and the aforementioned Bouchon), Michael Chiarello's NapaStyle and Bistro Jeanty.

On Monday back in San Francisco, JoJo organized a birthday dinner for me at Sushi Groove South.  What a blessing to have such great friends.  Bring on the Cilantro Rolls! 

The 3-day affair turned out to be the perfect way to celebrate the big 4-1.  That's right, Dara Torres and I are gonna take on the world this year. 41 and fabulous!

Click here to see my "How I Spent My Summer Vacation 2008" photos Webshots.

TRIO at the Four Seasons (Austin)

I hadn't read much about TRIO at the Four Seasons, but thought it the most appropriate place to dine given the fact that we were in Austin for a triathlon.  Silly, I know, but I couldn't help myself.  Luckily, my friend Joanna graciously humored me and we ended up having a very nice meal.  Not a "personal best," but a good showing.  

If it truly had been a race, the service would have put Trio at the bottom of the pack.  Sooooo slooooow, and there weren't even that many people in the restaurant.  At one point I recalled having read a comment on Zagat that someone had to call the restaurant from their table in order to get a server!  I started to wonder if we'd need to do the same.  But luckily when the food did arrive it was, in most cases, worth the wait.  

We began with popovers -- a nice alternative to the standard basket of rolls.  They had a bit of parmesan baked into the top which was good while they were warm, not so much the longer we waited for the rest of our food.

The apps finally arrived.  Joanna's English Pea Ravioli with Ricotta, Corn and Morels was worth the wait; my Crab Fondue with Herb Bruschetta was not.  The bread was barely crusty, and too thick to bite into and keep the crab fondue from falling off.  Quite the balancing act.  I eventually switched gears and used the popover instead.  

I was beginning to worry that my strategy of choosing the restaurant by its name was seriously backfiring.  Luckily, the mains and sides reversed that course.  I had the 8 oz Filet Mignon, while Joanna enjoyed theRice Flake Crusted Halibut.  But the real stars were the three sides: Truffle Macaroni, Green Beans andSweet Corn Creme Brulee.  I could have eaten that last one for dinner and dessert! 

Thankfully, the positive trend continued into dessert.  Sticking to my tri/Trio guns, I ordered the Trio of Dark Chocolate (dark chocolate ganache cake, Valrhona creme brulee, and Callebaut chocolate mousse).  Joanna had the Lemon Creme Brulee Tart (with balsamic strawberries, pistachio ice cream and strawberry gelee).  

By the time we finished, we'd decided the restaurant needed to be renamed Creme Brulee.

Check, please!

Race Report: Danskin Women's Triathlon (Austin)

Deja vu?  Perhaps, since this is the fourth year in a row that Jo Jo and I have made the trip down to Austin for "The Danskin."  Of course, it's become much more than just the race.  It's a weekend full of great food, shopping and spending time with Joanna's family.  And while we've gotten some of the weekend down to a science, there are always new things to discover and hopefully keep this report interesting.

Day 1: Friday

First change was our hotel.  I am so over the Omni after suffering through construction noise and housekeeping screaming down the entire hall for turn-down service when we stayed there for the Austin Half in February.  So we made the switch to the Hyatt Regency on the other side of the Congress Street Bridge, adjacent to the "SoCo" 'hood.  I fell in love with the place immediately, mostly because once we ditched our bags in our room, we went on a walk on the Lady Bird Trail (formerly Town Lake Trail) which was right at the hotel's back doorstep.  It was early evening, but the weather was still quite warm.  It was the perfect way to shake off the airplane ride, get our heart rates up a bit and take in the gorgeous scenery (trees...and cute Southern men!)

For dinner I made a reservation at Trio, in the Four Seasons Hotel (see separate post).  

Day 2: Saturday

Rise and shine, bright and early to pick up bikes at Bicycle Sport Shop.  Imagine my delight when I learned that my fab Trek Madone rental bike was grey and pink -- and would therefore match my new tri outfit!  (Like Billy Crystal's Fernando Lamas always said, "It's not how you feel, dahling.  It's how you look.  And you look mahvelous!")

From there it was the usual routine we've come to know so well -- Expo packet pickup, bike transition area drop-off, and lunch at the best Whole Foods in all the land.  My Saturday lunch fare is usually the shrimp spring rolls and a fruit salad.  I also got some cappuccino almonds from the huge Nut Bar.  (That's funny.  That's what people usually call me when I tell them I'm going to do a triathlon...)  The bar has about six times more varieties than I was able to capture in this photo. 

After lunch, I went on a SoCo shopping expedition.  What were some of my favorite finds?  

Big Top Candy Shop:  An old fashioned candy shop that stocks all kinds of bulk and novelty candies.  I found some of my old favorites (Goetze's Bull's Eyes, Swedish Fish), some more recent discoveries (Violet Crumble, which Jacquie turned me on to in Sydney) and some things that were just not to be believed  -- like Burgers and Fries made out of marshmallows, and a Pop Rocks Chocolate Bar.  If you ever liked Pop Rocks as a kid, and you like chocolate, I encourage you to get your hands on some.  

hey cupcake!: The culinary highlight of the trip, I kid you not.  People line up and wait for the chance to buy cupcakes from an Airstream trailer with a huge spinning cupcake on top.  What makes the cupcakes so good?  You know how most cupcakes are decent on the bottom, but the best part is the moist area near the top and, of course, the icing?  Well at hey cupcake! the entire thing is rich and decadent enough to want to set up a tent next door.  As the napkin holder says, wipe that icing off your face, you big disgrace!

Another special treat this trip was seeing Ann -- my college friend and sorority sister whom I hadn't seen in ages. A few months ago we reconnected on Facebook and bonded about races, and before I knew it she'd  decided to come out from Rhode Island to do the Danskin!  Ann, her brother Ken, her sister-in-law Debra and I enjoyed dinner at Blue Dahlia the night before the race.   Between bites of my open-faced Chicken Salad Sandwich with pine nuts and sundried tomatoes, Ann and I tried to put Debra's tri newbie mind at ease about the race.  I don't think we were very successful, but the sandwich sure was good!   

Day 3: Sunday (Race Day)

Arrived at the transition area a little after 6 am, which gave us plenty of time before it closed at 7.  I set up my gear which included:

SFTri Club Towel to dry my feet off after the swim

Bike helmet 

Sunglasses

Camelbak

Socks

Sneakers

Number belt 

CLIF Nectar Bar (unwraped and placed in a plastic baggie to keep the bugs out)

For those of you who have never done a tri before, you've got no more than about one square foot in which to put all this stuff, and you need to be very strategic about it -- placing items in the order in which you'll need them.  My area was well-organized, but unfortunately I got a little overconfident and didn't bother to really take a few minutes to memorize my transition area location vis a vis the entrance and exit points.  (Insert ominous music signifying foreshadowing here.)

Jo Jo and I headed down toward the Swim Start and got body marked.  Yup, 974 on my arms and legs, and the big 4-0 on the back of my right calf.  Before long I was in the water and Sally Edwards was telling me I'm a PHENOMENAL swimmer! (Each wave gets a word - so you can chant to yourself throughout the race.  "I. Am. A. Phenomenal. Swimmer!"  So glad my word wasn't "Awesome."  Gag me.)

Speaking of gagging, it was so windy that I ended up swallowing most of Decker Lake.  But I got through it and was able to remain calm thanks to remembering triathlete Matt Reed's great speech at Sports Basement a year ago. "Relax in the swim."  It really makes a difference in terms of not freaking out.  That said, the first year of Danskin I actually did freak out in the swim but had my best swim time of all four years.  Go figure.

So I finally made it out of the water.  This first shot appears to be me displaying that manicure also made it out intact.

  

Running up toward the transition area I was feeling good -- relieved that the swim was over and ready to get on my bike.  If I could only find it... I finally did, hopped on and rode like the wind. he bike leg was great.  It's always such a treat to do the whole thing without falling or getting a flat tire.  Those are the two things I always worry will happen and, thank God, to date never have.

Back in the transition area, I ditched the bike and Camelbak, grabbed my number belt and Nectar bar and was off again.  As I headed out the Run Exit, I heard the announcer say, "There goes Number 974 looking strong, not a care in the world!"  That gave me a boost and I was feeling great for about 15 more seconds.  Then the Austin heat and the fact that I hadn't done enough brick training really set in.  I just had to keep reminding myself that this was the final leg, I could do it....just keep pushing.   However, the biggest encouragement was at a point where the run course ran by part of the bike course.  Someone yelled to the bikers, "What's your word?"  The answer came back, "Phenomenal!"  Wait a minute, that's my word, and I'm running!  I must be doing pretty well!

It was so hot that at each water stop, half my water went in my mouth; the other half I poured on my head.  Boy that felt good.  Before long I was crossing the finish line at 1:46:59 -- 31 seconds faster than last year.  Another one down! 

  

After the race, it was back to rituals.  A Barton Springs Sandwich at Whole Foods (turkey, arugula, brie and fig spread), and since their Gelato Bar was closed (gasp!) we scurried across the street for some famous Amy's Ice Cream.  Kahlua Ice Cream with Heath Bars and Oreos mixed in, please -- I just did a triathlon!

From there it was down to San Marcos for a quick, productive stop at the outlet mall and then on to what has always been my very favorite part of the trip: time with Joanna's family -- including swimming in the river with the kids, and Texas BBQ for dinner.  

So that's all for this year, folks!  Since next year will be our 5th Annual, we're going to really do it in style.  More style that this, you ask?  Yes - we mean raising money for semi-private bike racks in the transition area and going for a little spa vaca afterwards.  Anyone want to join us?  

Day Trippin' to Napa

While I do have the Danskin Triathlon coming up in a couple of weeks, I decided to do a different kind of triathlon yesterday -- a day trip to Napa with Rebecca.  Instead of the usual swim - bike - run, it was run - eat - shop (then eat some more).

Leg 1: Run -- 6 miles at the gym

As with all my morning workouts, this set me up for feeling great the rest of the day.  It was also beneficial given how much I planned to eat and the clothes I expected to fit into on the subsequent legs.

Leg 2: Eat -- Oxbow Public Market

Oxbow Public Market is Napa's version of the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Market, featuring farmstands, restaurants as well as artisan purveyors of all kind of gourmet specialties.

Our first stop was Taylor's Refresher.  Taylor's started as a roadside shack near St. Helena. They've gussied up that location and expanded to the San Francisco Ferry Building and now Oxbow.  The new Oxbow location is just as busy as the other two; as we waited for our orders we watched the hustle and bustle of the kitchen...

...and by the time our food was ready, there were still no seats so we ate at a table standing up.  I didn't mind, since you know it's fewer calories that way. (Just kidding, of course.)  Behold the inimitable Taylor's Bacon Cheeseburger on an egg bread bun with secret sauce, and Sweet Potato Fries dusted with chili powder accompanied by a side of ranch dressin' for dippin'.

From there, we headed over to Three Twins Ice Cream, a Rebecca fave. The ice cream is very good, organic, and served in compostable containers with spudware spoons.  But what I liked best was that when I ordered two scoops in a small cup, the woman behind the counter asked which flavor I wanted to go in the cup first.  It makes a difference!  I went with Venetian Coffee on the bottom, Milk and Cookies on top.

The second leg was now complete and we were feeling great going into the next event -- the shopping leg!

Leg 3: Shop - Napa Premium Outlets

The Napa Premium Outlets are approximately a five minute drive from Oxbow, so after a brief transition we were  plunking down plastic at Barneys, Banana Republic, Gap, BCBG, Calvin Klein, Coach and Ann Taylor.  The credit cards didn't suffer serious injury, though, since on top of the outlet prices there were Memorial Day Sales going on.  So all in all, a very successful event.

Post-Race Celebration:  Julia's Kitchen at COPIA

After every race, I celebrate with a special meal, and this was no exception.

COPIA, the American Center for Food, Wine and the Arts, is located next door to Oxbow, so our entire day conveniently took place in a two-mile radius.  Julia's Kitchen is named after you-know-who, and when we walked in, she was on the flat screen TV in the bar area, whipping up something with Jacques Pepin.



We made our way into the sleek yet comfortable dining room, and settled into a meal that fired on all cylinders: taste, presentation and service.  Unfortunately, we also happened to be at a wedding!  Not literally at the wedding, but the event space is right next to the restaurant, separated only by velvet curtains.  I highly recommend calling ahead to make sure you're there on a night when there isn't a similar event going on, if possible.  Or at least don't let the overenthusiastic best man get hold of the microphone.

We were famished from our full day of shopping, so we dove into the bread basket and also enjoyed warm, fluffy, cheesy gougiers as we awaited our apps.

Rebecca had the Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with house-made brioche, strawberry gastrique, caramelized fennel and vanilla salt, and exclaimed that the strawberries made the foie gras fantastique!



I had the Braised Spring Lamb and Purple Potato Ravioli with sauteed Copia spring vegetables, garden mint jus.  The light, perfectly cooked veggies were complemented beautifully by the hearty lamb broth, and the entire dish tasted as good as it looked.

For our main courses, we ordered dishes that were noted in the menu as tributes to Julia Child's original recipes interpreted by Executive Chef Jeff Mosher.  If it looks like a duck, Rebecca will order it, so she had the Liberty Duck aux Cerises Duo: crispy duck leg confit, seared breast, forbidden rice, garden spring vegetables, local cherries and cherry jus...



...while I thoroughly enjoyed the Pan Seared Niman Ranch Ribeye with spring garlic potato puree, king trumpet mushrooms, tempura asparagus and sauce bearnaise.



The waiter couldn't even finish his sentence when asking whether we'd like to look at the dessert menu.  But of course!  One Fromage Blanc Mousse with blackberry jus, hazelnut dacquoise, and blackberries; and one Valrhona Chocolate Caramel Tart with bittersweet chocolate ganache, Copia garden sage caramel, creme de cacao ice milk float, s'il vous plait!




As lovely looking and tasty as the desserts were, they're not what I'd come back for.  The apps and mains were the real stars of the evening.

Check, please!



So, hopefully this "race report" will inspire you to take a similar day trip of your own.  In the meantime, keep checking back here for "training" suggestions!

Sydney, Days 7 and 8

Hello, lovelies!  Hope you've been enjoying the trip so far. I know, the time has flown by and we're already on the last full day of the trip.  If you're joining the itinerary late, you can catch up with us at the links below.  (Don't worry, we'll wait.)

Click here for Sydney, Days 1 and 2
Click here for Sydney, Days 3 and 4
Click here for Sydney, Days 5 and 6

Day 7 : Friday

Woke up to the realization that today was our last full day in Sydney.  Tried not to be sad.

First on today's agenda was the Sydney Jewish Museum, which houses extensive educational exhibits, artifacts and memorabilia, tributes to Holocaust survivors, and highlights of Jewish contributions to Australian society.  Our visit was a moving and worthwhile experience.

The museum is in Darlinghurst, as is another outpost of Bills.  Bills in Woollahra is where we had our first meal of the trip, and Rebecca had been gushing about the Ricotta Pancakes with Honeycomb Butter the entire week.  So of course I had to have them, even after perusing everything on the larger-than-life menu.

Here are the famous pancakes...

..and here's their biggest fan enjoying them at the gorgeous wood communal table.

Half the secret to my 2-lb. weight loss on the trip despite all the incredible food was not eating every last bite on my plate -- the other half was a morning workout each day.   Seeing I'd only eaten two of the three 'cakes, our friendly waiter suggested that next time I get a short stack.  Hopefully it won't be too long before next time!  In the meantime, we can all make them at home with the recipe from Bills Sydney Food available on Amazon.com.  (Wow, I didn't realize it until I looked at the book just now, but even though it's his restaurant Bills doesn't have an apostrophe.  If you see nothing wrong with that, buy this on Amazon while you're at it.)

After lunch we headed over to Oxford Street for some retail therapy.  Jacquie's friends had recommended some great places but unfortunately, therapy is pretty pricey in Sydney.  For the most part, if I liked it, I couldn't afford it, and if I could afford it, I didn't like it.  $400 for a pair of jeans just didn't make any sense.

But no matter -- we had bigger fish to sautee at Neil Perry's famous Rockpool that night, recently named one of the Top 50 restaurants in the world.   Perry's welcome note graces the first page of the menu.  "The cornerstone of good cooking is to source the finest produce," he begins, and then goes on to talk about the fishermen's low-stress regime, and how "our shellfish are live and stress free," and that you should get ready to open your wallet wide for "a superior but more expensive product.  We could buy cheaper, inferior fish, but this would compromise our philosophy in delivering the best."   Way to go on managing sticker shock, Neil!  You should be in marketing.

All kidding aside, the food really was amazing -- both in terms of quality, flavors and inventiveness.

For apps I started with the Tuna tartare with classic flavours...

...Rebecca had the Ortiz "Gran Reserva" salted anchovy with tomato confit on toast...

...and Jacquie had oysters.

Then we were ready for the main event.  Of the extensive menu, one dish really jumped out for both Jacquie and me:  Seared scallop, squid and smoked bacon with squid ink noodles.  Unforgettable.  Rebecca felt the same way about her Grilled king prawns with goat cheese tortellini.

Though I could have gone home right then and considered it a tremendous meal, you know Rebecca and I are dessert people (we've been known to order four desserts between the two of us) and we brought Jacquie along for the ride with:

Chocolate rice crackle cake -- a crisped rice base with chocolate mousse, cloaked in a chocolate dome.

Passionfruit souffle -- I have no passion for passionfruit, but the girls seemed to like it, and it did look quite pretty.

But the winner by a long shot was the Salty peanut ice cream with Trumer pilsner granita.  Yes, you read that right; the granita was made out of beer.  Together with the ice cream, it made for a  fancy-schmancy take on traditional game day snacks.

There was great debate over which was the better meal -- Serge Dansereau's Bathers' Pavilion birthday lunch or Neil Perry's Rockpool dinner.  In the end, it was too close to call.

Day 8 : Saturday

Our last morning included a trip back to Bondi, and to Aquabar, scene of our Day 2 breakfast.  One more plate of eggs, bacon, mushrooms and Turkish toast to finish off a fantastic week in Sydney.  Happy birthday, Jacquie, and thank you again to everyone who made the trip so special!   

Now that I'm back home, I'm doing my best to replicate those eggs, and I even asked for beets with my burger at Chez Maman.  Non was the reply. Oh well, I guess I'll start getting ready for Rebecca's birthday trip to Paris in December with something else.  Brie, s'il vous plait?

Sydney, Days 5 and 6

We're now mid-way through the trip and Day 5 is the main event -- Jacquie's birthday!
Click here if you missed Sydney, Days 1 and 2
Click here if you missed Sydney, Days 3 and 4

Day 5 : Wednesday

Jacquie chose to have her birthday celebration at her favorite place on Earth, a restaurant called Bathers' Pavilion on Balmoral Beach.  As soon as we arrived, I understood why.  The beautifully appointed restaurant overlooks one of Sydney's many striking beaches, and the food was out of this world.  The afternoon was an unforgettable array of great friends, food and tributes to Ms. Jacquie.  We also had the pleasure of meeting Bathers' Pavilion's owner and executive chef, Serge Dansereau.

Here's the birthday menu:

Tuna Sashimi with Bribie Island soft shell crab tempura ~ celeriac and chive salad, wasabi flying fish roe
or
Assiette de canard ~ Hoisin breast, rilletes cannelloni, foie gras custard
or
Moreton Bay bug tail ~ fennel and ruby grapefruit salad, shellfish butter

* * *

Cone Bay barramundi with pancetta ~ horseradish and cauliflower cream, basil oil
or
Farmed Tasmanian Arctic Charr ~ scallop, ginger and pork crepe, coriander pesto
or
Twice cooked Wagyu beef cheek ~ portobellow mushroom with brioche and white anchovy

* * *

Petit Fours
Birthday Cake (an incredible chocolate hazelnut treat)

I chose the tuna appetizer and barramundi main.  Jacquie had put the barramundi on the menu in part because I'd enjoyed that fish so much at South food + wine bar, Luke Mangan's Aussie/Kiwi restaurant in San Francisco.   Apparently friendly competition among chefs Down Under is heating up, and when I tasted Serge's barramundi, I understood why! 

Below are some photos that capture a few of the memories of the day.  The food tasted even better than it looked. 

Top to bottom:  Me with the birthday girl, my place setting, the amuse, the tuna and crab app, the duck app, the barramundi main, the beef main, the Arctic charr main, petit fours, birthday cake, me with Chef Serge.

Wiped the drool off your chin yet?  Great.  Let's keep going...  Believe it or not we kept eating!  After that four hour lunch, we had a lovely dinner with Jacquie's family at her sister and brother-in-law's home in Killara. 

Day 6 : Thursday

We spent Thursday morning touring the Northern beaches.  No Hugh Jackman sightings. (Sigh.)   I did, however, have ... one of the best burgers of my entire life (do I say that a lot, darlings?) at Blue Water Cafe in Manly.  Traditional Aussie-style, with beets, cheese and grilled onions -- on a fresh, squishy bun.   If restaurants in the  States offered something similar, they'd make a killing. (Would have to be at the nicer places, of course - don't think this would appeal to the fast food nation.)  My only criticism would be the fries -- typical of those I found most places in Sydney, they were not quite thin, not quite thick -- and I like them thin.

After a bit of shopping in Mosman in the afternoon, that evening we met up for drinks with some of Jacquie's friends at Bondi Icebergs, a mod lounge housed in the clubhouse for Sydney's version of the Polar Bear Club (they'll swim no matter how cold it is).  Sporting my new red dress from Country Road and perched in the retro wicker swing chair, I enjoyed spending time with Jacquie's friends -- especially Melinda, a nice, funny version of Posh Spice who actually knows how to smile! 

Stay tuned for Days 7 and 8, including Chef Neil Perry's Rockpool -- a contender looking to oust the incumbent, Bathers' Pavilion, for best meal of the trip!

Sydney, Days 3 and 4

Let's see, where was I?  (Click here if you missed Sydney, Days 1 and 2)

Day 3 : Monday

On Monday morning I climbed to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  I was so excited to do this -- I live for adrenaline rushes! -- and even booked online before I left San Francisco.  However, although the view was spectacular atop the 134 meter-high, 503 meter-long structure, unfortunately there wasn't much adrenaline coursing through my veins.  I must say I was a bit disappointed that it wasn't more scary.  I want some heart-thumping!  Where's the bungy?  Now that would've been amazing!  Nonetheless, if you find yourself in Sydney, I highly recommend doing the climb for yet another perspective on this beautiful city.  (Click here to book your climb.)

After the climb, I met up with Jacquie, Rebecca and Lisa at China Doll, one of the restaurants that line the wharf at Woollomooloo. (Say that 10 times fast.  Better yet, spell it.)  We were in great hands with Lisa as our gastronomic guide.  First came the mushu: perfect pancakes, succulent duck and hoisin sauce that I would have licked out of the dish if I hadn't been in polite company. Then came the beef and string beans in a flavorful sauce, shrimp tempura and crispy chicken.   Of all the dishes, the duck and the beef were the clear winners.

Even at lunch, we always save room for dessert.  We'd seen black rice pudding with mango on a couple of menus, and decided to try it here.  It was good, but the black sesame sorbet stole the show.

After lunch we made our way over to Westfield Bondi Junction, or as the locals abbreviate it, WBJ (Don't say it.  Polite company, remember?)   Most interesting was the epicure section of David Jones, a major retailer a la Bloomingdales in the States.  They had a produce and prepared food section that could rival some of our high end grocery stores.  Smack dab in the middle of the mall.  No time for dilly-dallying, though, because I was on a mission to get to Country Road.  Country Road is an Aussie clothing retailer that tried to make a go of it in the U.S. several years back.  They pulled out, but before they did I got some terrific stuff, some of which is still in my wardrobe today.  At WBJ, I was able to find a couple of items to join them.

That night, Rebecca was under the (rainy) weather and Jacquie was spending family time, so I was on my own at the hotel for dinner. I decided to try a traditional Aussie burger for the first time.  I've never been a big fan of beets, but put them on a burger with cheese and sauteed onions and I'm sold. (Those of you paying attention will get a kick out of the headline of the article I was reading.)

Day 4 : Tuesday

Another highly anticipated stop on the itinerary was our trip to the Taronga Zoo.  As a general rule I don't like zoos. I prefer to see animals in their natural habitats, not cooped up and on display for gawking humans.  Let's preserve as much as we can of those natural habitats on this Earth and visit them there.  However, if I'm an animal and I must be in a zoo, I'm definitely doing everything I can to get into Taronga.  Man, what a view!  The zoo overlooks the expansive Sydney harbor and its beautiful skyline.  We saw some of my favorite animals, including giraffes, kangaroos, elephants and koalas, and Rebecca found her alter ego!

After the zoo, we enjoyed a traditional fish-and-chips lunch at Bottom of the Harbour on Balmoral Beach in Mosman.

Later that day, I paid a visit to some of my co-workers in my company's Sydney office, and then a few of them took me out for a fun night on the town.  We started out with dinner at Bodega, a tapas bar in Surry Hills.  Sorry, but there are no photos, so you won't get to see the inventive, flavorful dishes -- my favorite was the Grilled Calamari with Morcilla (blood sausage), Pumpkin Puree and Ink sauce. 

After dinner, my colleagues had arranged a very special Sydney experience for me:  a visit to the private club on the roof of the InterContinental Hotel.   It must be what heaven is like, if heaven is a beautifully decorated, mod lounge with a spectacular 360 degree view and a plate full of delicious desserts!

Sweet dreams, angels!  Stay tuned for more Sydney reportage.   The best (food) is yet to come!

Sydney, Days 1 and 2

Hallo, dahlings!  As promised, I'm beginning to release details of my recent vacation in Sydney.  Why has it taken so long?  Well, first I was recovering from jet lag and getting back into the swing of things at work.  I was also busy catching up with people and things I'd missed while I was away, like Bacon Boy, The Biggest Loser finale, and taking care of my increasingly unruly brows.  Then I started getting distracted by things like my mail pile (Ooooh, look! The new Edible San Francisco is here!)  and my television.  Yes, my friends, the writers' strike drought has ended, thank God.  Then, of course, there was the matzoh quest.

But what has most kept me from starting this post is that it is so difficult to express what an amazing trip it was.  I'll give it my all -- you know I always do for you, darlings --  but for the most part I'm going to let the pictures speak their thousand words.  Australians are big fans of abbreviation anyway, you know.  Anyone who grew up in the 80's knows barbecue is "barbie."  That's just the beginning, and in fact, I don't recall hearing anyone say "barbie" the entire time I was there.  I heard a lot of "brekkie" (breakfast), and "uni" (university, not sea urchin).

Day 1: Saturday

After a not so short 13-hour flight, we arrived in Sydney.  "We" is Rebecca and Jacquie, the Sydney native who lives in SF now, whose birthday we were celebrating.  (Sidebar: I started the destination birthday trend among my girlfriends with a Vegas extravaganza last year.  Don't bother searching The FFB archives -- it stays in Vegas.  Jacquie's came next, and Rebecca's will be in Paris in December.  I know. How lucky am I?) 

After dropping our bags at the hotel, we were ready to eat.  Jacquie knows me well.  (Some of you may be scratching your heads, wondering when I'm not ready to eat.  How right you are!)   

Jacquie had outlined a fun- and food-filled itinerary for the week.  If you're planning a trip of your own, look no further -- just do everything we did and you'll have a marvelous time!  Our first meal was at Bill's in Woollahra.  (Click here to learn more about Bill and his restaurants.)  I had the bright and tasty Corn Fritters with a side of rockin' guac, while Rebecca fell in love with the Banana and Ricotta Pancakes with Honey Butter.

Newly fortified, we were ready to embark on the Sydney Harbor Cruise -- a great intro to the city and its history (although we were lucky to have Jacquie with us to point out some slight inaccuracies in the tour guide's comments).  I spent most of the boat ride craning my neck whenever the filming of Baz Luhrmann's upcoming epic movie, Australia, was mentioned -- eager to catch a glimpse of Hugh Jackman or at least the ground he's walked on, which you know I worship.   

Here's a shot from the boat.  The two passengers pictured are Flat Stanley and Flat Katie.  Rebecca brought Stanley to Sydney for her nephew, and Katie had coincidentally come along with the tourists sitting next to us.  Matchmaking Stanley and Katie was one of the funniest moments on the trip.   I think he wanted to hook up, but she flat out denied him. (Click here if you want to know what Flat Stanley is all about.)

That evening, we strolled the Sydney waterfront and had our first taste of typical restaurant service, Aussie-style.  In other words, painfully slow, aloof and slightly arrogant.  That certainly wasn't the case everywhere, but since in Australia the waitstaff is paid more and relies less on tipping, they tend to be less motivated than in the U.S. where the reverse is true.

I won't name the restaurant, since you shouldn't bother with it.  I'd much rather skip straight to Day 2!

Day 2: Sunday

I woke up early on Sunday and headed to the hotel gym for a morning workout.  Doing this every day was a stroke of genius on my part, if I do say so myself.  It's so much easier said than done, but if you can, I highly recommend it.  It immediately rid me of jet lag for the rest of the trip, and was the key to staving off the effects of all the amazing meals we ate -- I actually lost two pounds on the trip!

The first activity on the itinerary for Sunday was a walk along Sydney's famous beaches, from Bondi to Bronte and back to Bondi, where we landed at Aquabar.  We sat at outside tables, drank deliciously strong "skinny lattes" and ate breakfast.  Jacquie had serious egg envy -- mine  were  scrambled exactly the way I like them (lightly, ever so slightly more than "runny") and accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, thick strips of Aussie bacon and Turkish toast -- which is akin to a cross between pita and French.   Here's a pic from the last day of the trip: we came back here one last time before heading to the airport.  Good thing the eggs weren't quite as perfect that day or I might not have gotten on that plane.

Back to Sunday at Aquabar -- we meet the first two of Jacquie's many fabulous friends: Nikki (a burst of boho chic sunshine) and Lisa (a fellow foodie -- I think she's my Aussie alter ego).

Later that day, Rebecca, Jacquie, her parents and I went to a matinee at the Sydney Opera House, an architectural icon recognized the world over.  The Steinway Spectacular was aptly billed "an eight piano performance of unashamed virtuosity."  It featured eight of Australia's most accomplished pianists, a vertigo-plagued organist (ironic, no?) and a comedic conductor/master of ceremonies.   

Sunday evening we were invited to Jacquie's parents' lovely home (what a view!) for a traditional Hungarian feast.  Thank you, Mari and Gyuri for a delicious and delightful evening.

More on my Sydney trip coming soon - stay tuned!