I know what you're thinking. "Breezy's...I've never heard of that place. Has Fro Fro gone off the deep end? First Eater SF reports she and Michael Bauer may be the only food writers in San Francisco that dared denounce Spruce, and now she's reviewing a place called Breezy's?" All I can say is, "Hold on to your hats, darlings, because Breezy's is strong." My puns on the other hand...
I, too, was skeptical at first. Breezy's web site gives a more casual impression than I was shooting for on this occasion, but the menu looked too good to pass up. Let's face it: I see Macaroni and Cheese on a menu, I have to try the place. What's more, it's conveniently located near the Herbst Theater, where I was dragging Mr. Man later that evening to hear Alice Waters and Calvin Trillin talk to Ruth Reichl.
When we arrived, the casual air was front and center (bright blue and yellow French provincial facade, complete with a matching bicycle parked at the meter). However, the inside had a completely different look and feel: more mellow, mod and muted tones. Definitely more in line with the mostly sublime food we were about to eat.
The dinner menu is divided into Tapas (order a few as a meal, or one as an app), and Entrees, all of which are reasonably priced. That's right...based on your feedback and the fact that any food writer worth her fleur de sel includes prices in her reviews, I'll be doing so from now on.
The Truffle Macaroni and Cheese with Chorizo and Micro Greens ($7) lived up to my anticipatory excitement. In my mind I imagined that the pasta/sauce ratio would be perfect, and the richness of the cheese would strike a perfect balance with the spicy chorizo. My dream came true.
Mr. Man enjoyed the Fried Blue Point Oyster Salad with Radicchio, Chive Sticks and Champagne Vinaigrette ($9):
Unfortunately, he wasn't so lucky with his entree choice, the Roasted Chicken Breast Stuffed with Boursin Cheese and Asparagus, Wrapped in Bacon, with Artichoke Ragout and Sauce Diable ($19). The chicken was a bit underdone and didn't stand up to the melty cheese.
I, on the other hand, was extremely pleased with the Seared Muscovy Duck Breast Wrapped in Feuille de Brick, Stuffed with Wild Rice and Blackberry Chambord ($25). The well-cooked duck and earthy wild rice were beautifully complemented by the sauce and the plump, sweet, juicy blackberries. In fact, it probably would have been just as good and a bit less fussy without the feuille.
Then there was dessert. We went for the Chocolate Tart with Wild Berry Marmalade, Simple Syrup and Pistachio Dust ($7). Since childhood I haven't liked desserts that mix fruit and chocolate (exception: chocolate covered strawberries). However, Breezy's fruit didn't overpower the tart at all; it was simply a nice accent to the main chocolate event. The tart's chocolate filling also reminded me of childhood, when I would lick the bowl of batter after making brownies with my grandmother.
So if you're heading over to the Civic Center area for some cultcha and want to try a new dinner spot, give Breezy's a whirl.
Breezy's Restaurant and Bar
409 Gough Street at Hayes
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 552-3400
www.breezysf.com
Love food at restaurents in San Francisco.
Posted by: Penn | February 21, 2008 at 09:49 PM